
Me: “That’s not an Alp, that’s a hill.”
Jesse: “Nah, man. You try climbing that ‘hill’ and see how far you get.”
Me: “Oh I respect the hill. That hill would kick my ass. And in most other places that would definitely be a mountain. But it’s relative, right?”
I turn the other way and point to the sheer, snow-covered summit of a different topographical entity.
Me: “That’s an Alp. Compared to that Alp, this one,” I turn back to the mound in question “can only be called a hill, or maybe a hill-ton at best.”
Jesse: “A Salzburg Hilton, you might say”
Me: “Sal Hilton, long-lost sister of her more famous sibling.”
These were the types of conversations we had that day. Speculative and carefree. We let our eyes roam over the landscape as we walked along the Salzach river and through Salzburg, taking in every feature. On a bridge over the river at the north edge of the city, you can see three spires painted a sea green, teal color. That shade of green matched the color of the river almost exactly. We stood on the bridge, and the wind began to strengthen as storm clouds in the southern sky moved closer. The wind barreled over the river and created little spots of white foam, as pockets of air-swept water crashed back into the Salzach.
We should have been worried. We were about 2 miles from the main train station, and thunderclouds were chasing us. I saw a bolt of lightning emanate from one of the many hill-tons that surround the city. Our train to Villach, Austria was leaving in about 40 minutes, and we did not know where to meet our host, where he lived, or anything about the city. My phone was down to $0.08 in credit, which meant that I could only receive texts but could not make/receive calls or send texts. The plan was to get to the city, find internet, contact our host on Skype, and meet up from there. If any of those things went wrong, we’d probably end up camping in a park. The weather was looking frightful.
….
In Villach, we got off the train, and the station was pretty much deserted. Luckily, the storm hadn’t followed us, and we walked outside to a warm, clear night filled with taxi cab drivers conversing and several students laughing on the sidewalk.
We had a lot of trouble getting ahold of our host. After eventually finding an internet signal, the skype connection was bad and he had a heavy accent. We sat on the sidewalk outside a closed café with our packs strewn around us and our laptops open. A drunk Austrian guy came over and, in broken Germano-English, had us add him as a friend on facebook.
For all intents and purposes, we were homeless, and there seemed to be a growing possibility that we would end up in a park somewhere with packs for pillows and jackets for blankets.
But is that actually so bad? It was warm, the thunderstorm seemed far away, and this city had a relaxed, safe, and friendly atmosphere to it. As we walked along the street next to some bars and an endless row of kebap shops, we held a computer aloft to try and catch another wi-fi signal.
I wasn’t worried at all. There was absolutely no stress. I loved walking around this little city at night, having the cathedral in the middle of the central square to myself. I loved that we were in a town we’d never heard of 2 days ago, surrounded by hills that seemed to embrace the valley we sat in. As Mary Klayder has said to so many stressed undergraduates: It was going to be fine. The worst that could happen wasn’t actually that bad.
Of course we found our hosts, and they were amazing. Students at the local university, many of the people in their house were away on holiday, so Jesse and I each had our own room for those two nights. Tomorrow we’ll go to Bled, Slovenia, where we’ll walk around a big lake and take lots of pictures of a massive gorge. How much better can life be?
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